Saturday, March 21, 2015

Amazing Works Of Alexander Calder - Zadivljujući radovi Aleksandra Kaldera


⋙ Alexander Calder is my favorite designer of all times. He was a true renaissance man, by all the means - multitalented and accomplished in so many fields: sculpture (he was inventor of a kinetic sculpture), painting, drawing/graphics, jewelry, installations, etc. In his amazing and very productive opus, jewelry occupies just a "small" fraction of it, although he made some 1800 pieces during his lifetime.
⋘ ⋙ 
⋙  Aleksandar Kalder je moj omiljeni dizajner svih vremena. On je, u svakom smislu, pravi renesansni čovek - multitalentovan i ostvaren  na mnogim poljima:
skulptura (izumetelj je tzv. "kinetičke skulpture"), slikarstvo, crteži/grafika, nakit, instalacije. U ovom njegovom zadivljujućem i vrlo produktivnom opusu, izada nakita zauzima tek jedan mali deo iako je, tokom, života napravio negde oko 1800 komada nakita. 


⋙ Alexander Calder is my favorite designer of all times. He was a true renaissance man, by all the means - multitalented and accomplished in so many fields: sculpture (and inventor of a kinetic sculpture), painting, drawing/graphics, jewelry, installations, etc. In his amazing and very productive opus, jewelry occupies just a "small" fraction of it, although he made some 1800 pieces during his lifetime. I am so fascinated with his work that it will be very hard for me to focus, here, solely on jewelry, since I am equally thrilled with everything else that he did. 

 Aleksandar Kalder je moj omiljeni dizajner svih vremena. On je, u svakom smislu, pravi renesansni čovek - multitalentovan i ostvaren  na mnogim poljima:
skulptura (izumitelj je tzv. "kinetičke skulpture"), slikarstvo, crteži/grafika, nakit, instalacije. U ovom njegovom zadivljujućem i vrlo produktivnom opusu, izada nakita zauzima tek jedan mali deo, iako je tokom života napravio negde oko 1800 komada nakita. Ja sam toliko fascinirana njegovim radom da će mi biti teško da se fokusiram samo na nakit - zaista sam podjednako oduševljena svim drugim što je radio. Ovde i jedna posebna napomena koja bi mogla da bude zanimljiva nama, sa ovih prostora - Kalder je radio i na izradi igračaka za decu i to na inicijativu i predlog jednog srpskog proizvođača igračaka. Koliko sam razumela Kalder je za njega uradio jednu posebnu kolekciju, koja je trebala da bude predstavljena na izložbi u Francuskoj. Međutim, srpski proizvođač je misteriozno nestao (!?!!?), a Kalder je ipak kolekciju izložio, kako je bilo i predviđeno. Ovo je dalje uticalo na njegov rad u tom smislu što je to bila inicijalna kapisla za njegove dalje radove, posebno one na makro planu, u vidu monumentalnih, kinetičkih skulptura. Mene lično zanima ko je bio dotični srpski proizvođač i šta se sa njim desilo...U svakom slučaju predlažem da potražite i pogledate Kalderove igračke, s obzirom da su i one veoma zanimljive.


⋙ There are several levels (and reasons) for my fascination with Alexander Calder.
First of all, he was born in 1898 and I'm just guessing that most of his jewelry pieces (among the others) were created from early to up to mid 20th century. Considering that, I find that most of his work is looking both ancient, modern and futuristic at the same time. I can recognize so many influences, from ancient Greek, Roman and Pre-Columbian art, over Art Nouveau and other modernistic movements, to African and tribal arts. Some of his jewelry pieces look like they were just excavated from some ancient Roman tomb, while others are more like part of costume design from movies like "Star Wars" (to name one).

⋙ Postoji nekoliko nivoa (i razloga) za moje oduševljenje Kalderovim radom. Pre svega, s obzirom na to da je rođen 1898. godine, moja je pretpostavka da je većina njegovog nakita (kao i drugih radova) nastala u periodu od početka do polovine XX veka. Imajući to u vidu, smatram da njegov rad, u isto vreme deluje i antički i moderno i futuristički. Mislim da se tu može prepoznati toliko mnogo uticaja, od antiče Grčke, Rima i pre-Kolumbovske umetnosti, preko Art Nuvoa i drugih modernističkih pokreta,  do umetnosti Afrike, Azije i njihovih plemenskih društava. Pojedini komadi njegovog nakita deluju kao da su tek iskopani iz neke od rimskih grobnica, dok drugi izgledaju kao deo kostimografije za neke od filmova poput "Ratova zvezda", recimo.

⋙ Second, most of his jewelry pieces were made by a single piece of wire and it must have be a very, very long, one. I'm almost sure that sometimes he used meters and meters of wire and if you wonder how he handled it, I think this picture of him explains pretty much:). 

⋙ Drugo, većina komada njegovog nakita je napravljena od jednog jedinog, verovatno veoma dugačkog, komada žice. Gotovo da sam sigurna da su to ponekad bili metri i metri žice i ako se pitate kako je sa tim izlazio na kraj, mislim da ova njegova fotografija to poprilično dobro objašnjava,
⋙ Third, most of the time he used brass wire and steel, which means nothing that much expensive, if not cheap. In addition, he rarely used precious, or semi-precious stones, not even beads ( except once, in his childhood, when he made a jewelry pieces for his sister's dolls, from scraps of fine copper wire found on the street :)). But sometimes, he used bits of a beach glass, broken ceramics and wood. Still, some of his jewelry pieces were sold on auctions for around hundred thousand of $US! 

 Treće, on je od materijala uglavnom koristio žicu od mesinga ili čelika, dakle ništa preterano skupo, ako ne i jeftino. Šta više, retko kad je koristio drago i poludrago kamenje, čak ni perlice (osim jednom, u svom detinjstvu, kada je za lutke svoje sestre napravio nakit od ostataka bakarne žice koje je pronašao na ulici:)). Ali je zato, umesto toga, ponekad koristio parčiće stakla sa plaža ili one od polomljene keramike, drveta, itd. Uprkos tome, pojedini komadi njegovog nakita su na aukcijama prodati za oko 100.000 dolara!

⋙ Forth, it is simply astonishing to see with how much ease, playfulness and freedom he created his pieces. It seems also that he didn't use much of a tools. He rarely used solder: when he needed to join strips of metal, he linked them with loops, bound them with snippets of wire or fashioned rivets. He was also very generous and gave many of his jewelry pieces to his friends and relatives. Some of his most most dramatic and dynamic pieces were donated to Metropolitan Museum Of Art, NYC.

 Četvrto, naprosto je zadivljuće videti sa koliko lakoće, slobode i igre je on kreirao te komade. Izgleda da nije koristio ni previše alata. Retko kad je lemio svoje radove: kada je trebalo da spoji dva komada metala, povezivao ih je petljama i drugim komadima žice ili posebno napravljenim nitnama/zakivcima. Bio je i darežljiv i veliki broj komada svog nakita je poklonio svojim prijateljima i članovima porodice. Neki od njegovih najdramatičnijih i najdinamičnijih komada su darovani Metropliten Muzeju, NYC. 

⋙ One of those pieces is on the picture bellow, featuring Anjelica Houston, wearing it. And this was one of the pieces I've had in my mind when describing how they look both ancient and futuristic. The central part of the necklace looks like it was inspired by ancient Greek linear motifs, or by serpent-haired Medusas. While shoulder parts, quite sharp and pointed upward, look somehow futuristic. Even today, it would take a courage to wear this kind of statement jewelry - a term that I don't believe existed when Calder created this one piece.

 Jedan od tih komada se može videti na donjoj slici, koja prikazuje Anđeliku Hjuston kako ga nosi. Upravo ovaj komad sam imala na umu, kada sam opisivala kako mi pojedini njegovi radovi deluju istovremeno i antički i futuristički. Centralni deo ove ogrlice izgleda kao da je bio inspirisan antičkim, Grčkim linearnim motivima ili zmijolikom kosom Meduza. Što se tiče delova na ramenima,  oštri vrhovi upereni na gore čine da oni deluju nekako futuristički. 
 This is the same piece of jewelry featured, in Metropolitan exhibition, in 2008/2009. The exhibition was organized by the Norton Museum of Art, West Palm Beach, Florida, and the Calder Foundation, New York.

 Ovo je taj isti komad, izložen u Metropoliten Muzeju, na izložbi održanoj krajem 2008. i početkom 2009. godine, organizovanom od strane Norton Muzeja Umetnosti , Zapadni Palm Beach, Florida, i Kalder Fondacije iz Njujorka.
 Louisa Calder's dressing bureau with André Masson's poem, The Studio of Alexander Calder, Roxbury, 1943. Louisa Calder was Calder's wife. - I find a wall decoration to be arranged in an astonishing way:)!

 Studio Aleksandra Kaldera sa komodicom njegove žene Luize, 1943. god., na kome je i rukopis sa pesmom njihovog prijatelja Andre Masona. - Mene lično je oduševio način na koji je aranžiran zid iznad komode :)!

 Margaret Schevill wears an Alexander Calder piece - an extraordinary piece!
 Margaret Schevill nosi komad Kalderovog nakita - krajnje neobičan! 
 Ruth Horwich’s collection of Alexander Calder jewelry to be offered at auction. Photo: Christie’s Images Ltd. 2015. - Spirals of of shapes and sizes are very frequent motif of Calder's jewelry. Maybe that's the main reason why his jewelry has certain ancient flare to me.

 Kolekcija Kalderovog nakita, koja je pripadala Rut Horovič, ponuđena na Kristi aukciji. - Spirale svih oblika i veličina su čest motiv na Kalderovom nakitu. Možda je to glavni razlog zbog koga mi on deluje, imeđu ostalog, i antički. 
 Various spiral adornments, most of them brooches or elements for some future designs. My guess is that most of them were made either by a single piece of long wire or by combining 2-3 shorter wire pieces that were wrapped by long one. 
NOTE: I'm not sure about authenticity of these pieces, they might be made by someone who was inspired by Calder's work...

 Različiti spiralni ukrasi, uglavnom broševi ili elementi za buduće komade nakita. Moja je pretpostavka da je većina izrađena od jednog dugačkog komada žice ili kombinujući 2-3 kraća komada, obmotanih onim dugačkim. 
NAPOMENA: nisam sigurna da li su ovo autentični Kalderovi komadi ili od nekog ko je njima bio inspirisan...
 Various pieces, most of them brooches and a meandering motif bracelet. What I find unusual are precious or semi-precious stones wrapped in wire. 

 Različiti  komadi, uglavnom broševi i jedna narukvica sa meandrirajućim motivom. Ovde mi je neobično što se ipak vidi upotreba dragog/poludragog kamenja, obmotanog žicom, što za njega nije bilo toliko karakteristično.
 Spiral belt buckle that looks like an ancient Tibetan labyrinth or some kind of spiral mandala.

 Spiralna kopča za kaiš nalik drevnom, tibetanskom lavirintu ili nekoj vrsti spiralne mandale.
 I find this piece (a pendant) to be amazing! For this one I'm sure it was made from a single piece of wire. It probably presents stylization of an unusual butterfly. At least, I see it that way:).

 Ovim priveskom sam posebno oduševljena! Za njega sam sigurna da je napravljen od jednog, jedinog komada žice. Verovatno predstavlja stilizaciju nekakvog neobičnog leptira. Bar ja to tako vidim:).
 Again, a brooch or a pin from a silver and steel wire. It was sold on auction for US$ 63,440!

 Ponovo broš, ili pribadača, od srebrne i čelične žice. Prodat na aukciji za 63.000 dolara!

 I was not sure if this was a spider or scorpion, but it appeared to be a "Crab Brooch". Made of brass wire in 1938. This is brilliant! For me a  proof that Calder was a genius:)!

 Ovde nisam bila sigurna da li je u pitanju pauk ili škorpion, ali ispalo je da se radi o brošu u obliku krabice, naravljenom od mesingane žice, 1938. godine. Za ono vreme, brilijantno! I za mene dokaz da je Kalde bio genije:)! 
 Just to demonstrate how much he was inspired by spirals and meandering motifs, and further more, by ancient Greek and maybe Mayan art. This brooch looks like artist's interpretation of the Sun . It was made of brass wire in 1939. What is unclear to me if this was original design, or there was a missing stone/cabochon that was originally placed in the middle of the pin? However, this piece was sold on auction for around $US 100.000! 

 Primerak koji demonstrira koliko je bio inspirisan spiralama i meandrirajućim motivima, a dalje, i umetnošću antičke Grčke i (moguće) drevnih Maja. Ovaj broš mi deluje kao umetnikova interpretacija Sunca. Izrađen je od mesingane žice, 1939. god. Ono što mi nije jasno je, da li je ovo originalni dizajn ili nedostaje kamen/kabošon koji je prvobitno bio smešten u centralni otvor? Kako bilo, ovaj primerak je prodat na aukciji za oko 100.000 dolara! 
 A leaflike pin/brooch. In contrasts to the relaxed spiral, curly and curvy shapes, this one looks pretty tense, almost like a bow and arrow.

 Broš/pribadača u obliku lista. Za razliku od uobičajenih spiralnih oblika, krivudavih i opuštenijih po svojoj definiciji, ovde se vidi određena napetost, poput one kod luka i strele ili zategnutog jedra na čamcu.
 Below are two necklaces that look like they were inspired by African and Asian tribal/ethnic adornments and jewelry. To me, the first one looks ancient, and the other one - very modern.

 Ispod su dve ogrlice koje deluju kao da su inspirisane umetnošću Afrike i Azije i nakitom i ukrasima njihovih plemenskih zajednica. Tako mi prva deluje antički, a druga - poprilično moderno. 

 The other two necklaces form pictures below look quite unconventional and casual, something that I would wear on a beach or during summer. They are the ones that were decorated with bits of broken ceramics and beach glass. The first one has very interesting closure that I still have to figure out how it works:)? 

 Sledeće dve ogrlice izgledaju prilično nekonvencionalno i kežual, nešto što bih ja nosila na plaži ili tokom leta. Upravo su one komadi za koje je pomenuto da su bili dekorisani komadićima stakla sa plaže, delićima polomljene keramike, itd. Ova prva ima veoma interesantan zatvarač, za koji mi nije baš jasno po kom principu funkcioniše:) 
 And finally, beautiful hair pins. They definitely look ancient, especially the second one. The first one has elements of Art Nouveau and design is ingenious - how cleverly interlaced pieces of wire. And they are directed in such a way that lower part has functional role, and upper one is decorative. I have to zoom it and study it.

 I konačno, prelepe ukosnice. Definitivno mi deluju antički, posebno ova druga. Prva ima elemente Art Nuvoa i smatram da je dizajn ingeniozan - na kakav inteligentan način su isprepletane žice i usmerene tako da formiraju funkcionalan (donji) deo i dekorativni (gornji deo). Moraću to zumiram i posebno prostudiram.
 Actually, I have left this silver bed headboard for the end. Could you imagine having anything beautiful and charming like this above your head? I couldn't - I would lay in contra direction and enjoy looking at it, just to make sure it's real:). It was made for Peggy Guggenheim. You can read a story behind it here.

 Zapravo, za kraj sam ostavila ovo srebrno zaglavlje za krevet. Možete li da zamislite nešto ovako očaravajuće iznad svoje glave? Ja ne - morala bih da legnem u suprotnom pravcu i uživam gledajući ga, a i da se uverim da je ono stvarno:). Napravljeno je za Pegi Gugenhajm. Priču o tome možete pročitati ovde.

 REFERENCES - REFERENCE

 Wherever it was possible I have tried to find original sources of every image and textual info, and here I am listing them and inviting you to make your own research and introduction to the work and world of Alexander Calder.

 Gde god je bilo moguće pokušala sam da pronađem originalne izvore slika i tekstova i da ih ovde priložim i pozovem da se i sami dalje upoznate i informišete o radu Aleksandra Kaldera.














2 comments:

  1. Wowwwww wonderful pieces!!! Great post!!!
    Have a nice sunday!!! and my g+ for you!!!:)))

    Besos, desde España, Marcela♥

    ReplyDelete